Where did I leave off? Prague. That was two cities ago. It's a bit of a
whirlwind tour we're having. Still fun and our incredible good luck
with the weather is holding. Only one cold rainy night so far with
nary a drizzle or an overcast sky to be found.
I think I would have liked another day in Prague but I enjoyed what I
saw. We walked tons and also drank a lot of good beer. We hung out in
local smoke-filled (cough) bars. Due to extreme language incompetence
there was much pointing and nodding. People were friendly and easy to
deal with, though.
Next stop was Budapest. I liked it a lot. We did run into a bit of
drama with our 6:30 pm arrival. It was Hungary's National Day (like
Independence Day, maybe?). I'd sketched out a route from the train
station to the hostel via the subway. We got some cash and bought
tickets, no problem. But when we got on the train, it cruised right
past the transfer station. The locals seemed unperturbed but the other
backpacker on the train seemed similarly confused. We got off when the
train stopped next and got the next one going in the other direction. I
figured we'd ended up on an express train by accident. But no. The next
train cruised right past our transfer point (the only transfer point in
the entire system!) and the next stop too. At this point, we got out.
After purchasing a second pair of transit tickets, we got on a tram.
Going the wrong way. I consulted with a map to confirm this and a
friendly passenger offered to help us. He told us which bus to catch
after we got back to our starting point. We tried to catch it but I
noticed the street was closed and the buses were re-routed--and quite a
few police were about. We had to walk.
As we walked a few other pedestrians were around but the street was
shut down to car traffic. We figured it had something to do with the
holiday. A group of beer drinking skin-heads with Hungarian nation flag
patches confirmed it. And, as we got nearer the river, we could see a
rally in process. Ah.
We eventually found the hostel after about 20-30 minutes walking and
luckily they had beds for us. We unloaded our packs, relaxed for a few
minutes and then went out to find some dinner. Before dinner, we walked
out to where the rally was and espied a huge force of riot police
staging about a block away. Full armor, riot shields, the works. A
little scary.
Dinner was ok but nothing special. The next day we walked all around
the main tourist sights and Kent took plenty of pictures using my
camera (his was stolen some time back).
Our second night was quite a lot of fun as we went out on the town with
a group of Brits, Irish, Aussie and Kiwis--and one other American. We
drank and danced until all hours in an "authentic" Budapest club (one
of the hostel workers took us there).
Finally, yesterday, we got on the train about midday for Belgrade. The
trip was uneventful and relaxing since we didn't have to share the
compartment. We even had a very tasty and only marginally overpriced
meal in the dining car.
Upon arrival, we found the hostel easily since it's almost directly
across the street from the train station. It's on the 6th (7th!) floor
and the elevator is broken and it's ok to smoke--but other than that,
it's a decent place. Cough.
Today was spent walking around for a few hours, seeing the fort and a
bit of the downtown. I'm exhausted! This city is a bit decrepit and a
mishmash of brutal-ist Soviet architecture, glass boxes and more
decorative baroque styles. Even though it's a very old city, very
little pre-twentieth century remains.
Now I think it's time for a nap!
Grateful for: adventure.
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Prague: day one
Whew, I am tired. It's been quite a while since I've been this tired and it's not merely lack of sleep. Why so tired? Perhaps it's the fourteen hour plus bus ride I took starting yesterday. Did you know there is a system of long-haul buses you can take around Europe? I didn't. Now I do. The trips are significantly cheaper than the train (sometimes by more than 50%) but the travel times are much longer. In this case, we boarded the bus in Paris around 4pm and arrived in Prague around 6:45 (about 45 minutes late--oh, and we were late, in part, because we were stopped by the border patrol who came on the bus and examined everyone's passport or ID card. The just looked at my passport but they took Kent's and a whole bunch of other people's cards away for closer scrutiny. He remained extrememly calm but was a bit miffed that they didn't even give him a stamp as a memento.).
Upon arrival, we found the metro (subway) and went to a hostel we'd picked out before leaving. We had to kill about an hour before they opened so off to Micky D's for coffee it was. Lucky for us, the hostel had a decent, cheap room available. We said that we wanted to leave our stuff and come back but the lady said, "I clean. 20 minutes. You wait." So we waited and got in the room around 9am. I'd say we were both asleep in less than ten minutes. Nice.
After the nap, it was time to start exploring--and exploring we have been for a couple of hours (with a break for coffee and now internet). I have to say, though, that I'm still pretty shattered from the trip. Even a second cup of coffee isn't having much of an effect. I will try and stay awake and alert, though, because this is an exceptionally pretty town--even seen through my sleep-deprived haze. And, I am ready for some good cheap beer. As Kent said, "We're back to normal where beer and meat is cheap and wine and fancy bread is expensive." Indeed.
Grateful for: a decent place to sleep.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Here I go again
Today, this afternoon, I'm leaving for Prague. It's a bit of an unexpected trip but the opportunity arose and I didn't want to pass it up. Prague was on my list of places I wanted to see but I just couldn't manage the planning and being away for such a long stretch. This is better--another week or so away from my Paris home and I'll get to see Prague, Budapest and possibly a few other sights (the countryside?) along the way. I won't be going solo this time, either, which makes me simultaneously happy and worried. I'm going with my friend from Warsaw, Kent, who is heading back eastwards to reunite with his travel buddy.
The last week has been good. Old family friend, Ethan, came to visit. He and Kent did a good job of drinking a lot of beer while I mostly observed. No point at all in even attempting to keep up with those two!
Ethan's first night here, we went to dinner at Chez Gladines, a very popular, cheap Basque place. We were seated right away, which is almost unheard of, though it was a communal table and we were totally squeezed in--it still worked. Dinner was good and after we went for a wander, which lead to the realization that besides the rue Butte Aux Cailles, my neighborhood is completely dead on a Tuesday night. Walking along one of the major streets in the area we passed a place on the corner called "Atoll 13". I've often wondered what the deal was with this place. It sort of looked like an art center but it was usually closed. This night, the door was open and there was a hand made sign on the sidewalk advertising something but we weren't sure what.
A young fellow, stooped over and leaning on an umbrella, came out and talked to us. Ethan did the talking for our contingent since his French is better than mine. We were invited in to see a "spectacle" and it was free. And the place? A squat. A sort of art center-ish squat.
We walked in, went down to the basement and got one euro beers (small ones in bottles) and watched a make-shift variety show hosted by a young guy in a bald wig with a lot of grey fringe who dubbed himself "George Clooney-Cloon." It was interesting to say the least.
The next day, we took a very long walk to see a more formal arts center called "Centquatre" which is located in the former funeral home center of Paris. It's a huge building that was in use until 1998. The exterior was preserved and refurbished and the interior was gutted and (re?) configured to host about 20 artists' studios. We got to see two that were open to the public.
After Ethan left, things were a little more prosaic. Kent and I went to the movies and watched football (american style!) on Sunday. I know, I know, we're in PARIS. Don't worry: on Saturday, we walked to Notre Dame, strolled on the Ile St Louis, sat by the Seine and ate the famous (Berthillion) ice cream they sell there. We also drank beer at a sidewalk cafe out in the semi-chilly weather like the good faux-Parisians we are.
Now it's time to travel again. I'm excited and I'll try and stay in touch from the road.
Grateful for: travel opportunities.
The last week has been good. Old family friend, Ethan, came to visit. He and Kent did a good job of drinking a lot of beer while I mostly observed. No point at all in even attempting to keep up with those two!
Ethan's first night here, we went to dinner at Chez Gladines, a very popular, cheap Basque place. We were seated right away, which is almost unheard of, though it was a communal table and we were totally squeezed in--it still worked. Dinner was good and after we went for a wander, which lead to the realization that besides the rue Butte Aux Cailles, my neighborhood is completely dead on a Tuesday night. Walking along one of the major streets in the area we passed a place on the corner called "Atoll 13". I've often wondered what the deal was with this place. It sort of looked like an art center but it was usually closed. This night, the door was open and there was a hand made sign on the sidewalk advertising something but we weren't sure what.
A young fellow, stooped over and leaning on an umbrella, came out and talked to us. Ethan did the talking for our contingent since his French is better than mine. We were invited in to see a "spectacle" and it was free. And the place? A squat. A sort of art center-ish squat.
We walked in, went down to the basement and got one euro beers (small ones in bottles) and watched a make-shift variety show hosted by a young guy in a bald wig with a lot of grey fringe who dubbed himself "George Clooney-Cloon." It was interesting to say the least.
The next day, we took a very long walk to see a more formal arts center called "Centquatre" which is located in the former funeral home center of Paris. It's a huge building that was in use until 1998. The exterior was preserved and refurbished and the interior was gutted and (re?) configured to host about 20 artists' studios. We got to see two that were open to the public.
After Ethan left, things were a little more prosaic. Kent and I went to the movies and watched football (american style!) on Sunday. I know, I know, we're in PARIS. Don't worry: on Saturday, we walked to Notre Dame, strolled on the Ile St Louis, sat by the Seine and ate the famous (Berthillion) ice cream they sell there. We also drank beer at a sidewalk cafe out in the semi-chilly weather like the good faux-Parisians we are.
Now it's time to travel again. I'm excited and I'll try and stay in touch from the road.
Grateful for: travel opportunities.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
Here in Paris
Where do I start? The last couple of weeks have been pretty overwhelming. I'm having a good time being a non-stop hostess but it has thrown me out of my past semi-routine. Actually, I'm not sure I had much of a routine but it's completely different now. No complaints--I haven't been lonely (I haven't been alone), which is very, very good. I haven't had much time for meeting and greeting new people but I have been out and about quite a bit and seeing a bit of the "mainstream" Paris I'd skipped up until now. I've also been cooking more at home (good for the bank account) and hanging out a bit in my lively neighborhood.
Some of the things I've done over the last couple of weeks: visited the Pompidou Centre, day trip to Chartres, walk in Monmartre to visit the wine festival, hanging out at Sacre Coeur at night and watching the drunken revelers, a good look at the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe (but no accompanying climb), a short walk on the Champs Elysees.
I'd done all of these things before but most of them I'd either been on my own or it was the last time I was here--about 18 years ago--so getting to do these things with friends is a lot of fun and a somewhat new experience. And getting to show people the sights of my neighborhood is really fun.
So, my visitors continue. Amanda and her new husband were here for a few days, my friend from Warsaw has stayed on, and I'm expecting another old friend to arrive on Monday. Plus, tonight, I'm meeting a friend of a friend for drinks. All of sudden I have quite the social life. Not that it was a complete wasteland before but it does feel like what was a lot of work is now easy. Too easy? I bet I'll be pretty lonely when I'm completely on my own again…but I'm used to that. No problem.
On the discouraging side, my bid for employment did not work out. I had to provide a letter from my employer (even though they aren't currently paying me) saying it was ok for me to take other employment. It turns out, I cannot receive any kind of compensation from other governments--and the job was, though indirectly, with the French government. So: no job. (No volunteering either--I need to have status to be in the classroom. But I don't think I would have done it for no pay.)
But, hey, not working is the whole point, right? Not writing, though, is mostly definitely not the point, so I'm going to try and get back to it. Now, if I can only think of something to say….
PS A. is history. If you care to read between the lines you can probably figure out why.
Grateful for: friends, old and new.
Some of the things I've done over the last couple of weeks: visited the Pompidou Centre, day trip to Chartres, walk in Monmartre to visit the wine festival, hanging out at Sacre Coeur at night and watching the drunken revelers, a good look at the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe (but no accompanying climb), a short walk on the Champs Elysees.
I'd done all of these things before but most of them I'd either been on my own or it was the last time I was here--about 18 years ago--so getting to do these things with friends is a lot of fun and a somewhat new experience. And getting to show people the sights of my neighborhood is really fun.
So, my visitors continue. Amanda and her new husband were here for a few days, my friend from Warsaw has stayed on, and I'm expecting another old friend to arrive on Monday. Plus, tonight, I'm meeting a friend of a friend for drinks. All of sudden I have quite the social life. Not that it was a complete wasteland before but it does feel like what was a lot of work is now easy. Too easy? I bet I'll be pretty lonely when I'm completely on my own again…but I'm used to that. No problem.
On the discouraging side, my bid for employment did not work out. I had to provide a letter from my employer (even though they aren't currently paying me) saying it was ok for me to take other employment. It turns out, I cannot receive any kind of compensation from other governments--and the job was, though indirectly, with the French government. So: no job. (No volunteering either--I need to have status to be in the classroom. But I don't think I would have done it for no pay.)
But, hey, not working is the whole point, right? Not writing, though, is mostly definitely not the point, so I'm going to try and get back to it. Now, if I can only think of something to say….
PS A. is history. If you care to read between the lines you can probably figure out why.
Grateful for: friends, old and new.
Wednesday, October 01, 2008
Belated update
The days in Vienna were rainy and uneventful. Talked to several hostel-mates at length: two Canadians, a Brit, a German. I had dinner one evening with a sweet Aussie girl who I may see again when she comes through Paris.
On my first day, I went to the center, saw the Cathedral (Stephansdom). Beautiful but so crowded that I couldn't stand to stay very long. I stopped in an "authentic" guidebook-recommended Viennese café (Café Sperl) and sat for over an hour reading and writing while drinking coffee and eating lunch. I walked through the Naschmarkt, an open-air food and antiques market. All while making good use of my umbrella!
The second day was equally rainy, though it wasn't raining when I left the hostel so I made the mistake of leaving my umbrella. I spent the day hopping on and off trams and finding museums to see. First stop was the Freud Museum. It wasn't great but it was where he actually lived, which was worth the price of admission. Next, I went to the Leopold Museum. Unfortunately, my concentration wasn't great though I really enjoyed the large collection of Schiele paintings. I was particularly intrigued by the landscapes. In fact, I even bought an art book so I could learn a little bit more about his work. I haven't read it yet.
On the way back to Paris, I had a four-hour stop in Munich. I maxed out my walking time but never managed to hit Oktoberfest HQ. Oh well. Plus, rain, rain, rain! Still, it was fun. I bought yarn. [Ed. note: absurd.] It was much nicer and cheaper than what's offered in Paris. I passed a second yarn store on the way back to the train station but I didn't have time to stop.
Exciting news is that I have a potential job team-teaching an English class. It's only three-hours a week (which sounds perfect). It's not clear that they'll actually be able to hire me, but I'm going to show up on Thursday and see what's what. It would be great to have a little tiny bit of structure in my life.
On Saturday night, I joined some American friends to watch the first Presidential debate. Chances are I would NOT have watched the debate if I were back home. As it was, I couldn't help but find McCain likable in his curmudgeonly way. I still won't vote for him but I remain convinced that it won't be a disaster if he wins. At least he's honest. (Not that Obama isn't but I always go into rhetoric overload when I hear him. He did quite well in the debate.)
Since Sunday morning, I've had a houseguest: a great fellow I met while I was in Warsaw. It's a lot of fun having him here but it leaves little time for any private writing-type activity. In fact, he's the first of a series of three visitors I'm expecting! I can't believe that I'm getting all my visitors now after being here nearly four months but I'll try not to complain. I'm enjoying playing tour guide and it's cool to be the person who knows her way around and can order the food (etc.) in French without too much trouble. Paris isn't exactly my city but it's close.
If you don't hear from me for a few days it's because I'm busy with hostess duties. I'll write more when I get the chance.
Grateful for: visitors.
On my first day, I went to the center, saw the Cathedral (Stephansdom). Beautiful but so crowded that I couldn't stand to stay very long. I stopped in an "authentic" guidebook-recommended Viennese café (Café Sperl) and sat for over an hour reading and writing while drinking coffee and eating lunch. I walked through the Naschmarkt, an open-air food and antiques market. All while making good use of my umbrella!
The second day was equally rainy, though it wasn't raining when I left the hostel so I made the mistake of leaving my umbrella. I spent the day hopping on and off trams and finding museums to see. First stop was the Freud Museum. It wasn't great but it was where he actually lived, which was worth the price of admission. Next, I went to the Leopold Museum. Unfortunately, my concentration wasn't great though I really enjoyed the large collection of Schiele paintings. I was particularly intrigued by the landscapes. In fact, I even bought an art book so I could learn a little bit more about his work. I haven't read it yet.
On the way back to Paris, I had a four-hour stop in Munich. I maxed out my walking time but never managed to hit Oktoberfest HQ. Oh well. Plus, rain, rain, rain! Still, it was fun. I bought yarn. [Ed. note: absurd.] It was much nicer and cheaper than what's offered in Paris. I passed a second yarn store on the way back to the train station but I didn't have time to stop.
Exciting news is that I have a potential job team-teaching an English class. It's only three-hours a week (which sounds perfect). It's not clear that they'll actually be able to hire me, but I'm going to show up on Thursday and see what's what. It would be great to have a little tiny bit of structure in my life.
On Saturday night, I joined some American friends to watch the first Presidential debate. Chances are I would NOT have watched the debate if I were back home. As it was, I couldn't help but find McCain likable in his curmudgeonly way. I still won't vote for him but I remain convinced that it won't be a disaster if he wins. At least he's honest. (Not that Obama isn't but I always go into rhetoric overload when I hear him. He did quite well in the debate.)
Since Sunday morning, I've had a houseguest: a great fellow I met while I was in Warsaw. It's a lot of fun having him here but it leaves little time for any private writing-type activity. In fact, he's the first of a series of three visitors I'm expecting! I can't believe that I'm getting all my visitors now after being here nearly four months but I'll try not to complain. I'm enjoying playing tour guide and it's cool to be the person who knows her way around and can order the food (etc.) in French without too much trouble. Paris isn't exactly my city but it's close.
If you don't hear from me for a few days it's because I'm busy with hostess duties. I'll write more when I get the chance.
Grateful for: visitors.
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